Choosing the Best Stall Flooring for the Wellbeing of Your Horse (and Your Wallet)

Written by Dwayne Job Friday, July 27, 2018


Many people underestimate the importance of having comfortable flooring in their horses’ stalls. Some horses spend up to 23 hours a day in their stalls, and without some sort of comfort system, it can be a very long day for them! Horses are meant to be roaming grazers and are not made to stand on concrete or very hard surfaces for prolonged periods of time, so we should try our best to emulate their natural environment. One of the ways we can accomplish this for our domestic equine friends is to provide them with a good quality rubber floor on top of any hard surface they will be spending a lot of time on. The guide below will help you balance comfort with cost by providing you with a few ideas as to what to use in your horse stalls. All matting can also be used in a home gym, commercial gym, or anywhere you need some extra cushion.

Stall Mat Seconds 

Typically a 4’ x 6’ x ¾” mat can also be sold as a second.  Seconds have manufacturing defects that could include missing edges or corners, soft spots in the matting, areas with a crumbly texture, or tears. They are not a perfect mat, but if you are on stone dust, bed deep, or only have horses stalled for a few hours at night then they may work well for you. We would not recommend them for high-use areas such as wash stalls, grooming areas, or stalls with little bedding and horses in them for the majority of the day.


4' x 6' x ¾” Max Button Stall Mats

This mat features a flat top with a button bottom. There are two theories on how to best utilize these mats…

  1. Button side down, flat side up: This is without a doubt the best way for using these mats in horse stalls. The buttons on the bottom create something like air pockets that provide some cushion when weight is applied on top. Mucking is easy because you’re running your pitchfork or shovel on top of a flat surface and not constantly hitting the edges of the buttons.
  2. Button side up, flat side down: Some people believe that this provides more traction, but the reality of it is actually the opposite as there is less of the hoof touching the mat at any given time. Also, placing the mats this way makes them very difficult to clean as you cannot run a pitchfork or shovel along them without running into the buttons.


4’ x 6’ x ¾” Textured/Grooved Stall Mats

This is a very nice mat featuring a textured top, providing a great-looking consistent mat. The grooved bottom provides positive lock down into a stone dust floor which helps prevent the mats from moving. If being used on a concrete floor in a stall, urine and air can get trapped underneath which would likely result in undesirable odours. You can help reduce the likelihood of this happening by ensuring the mats are placed together and against the wall very tightly. Overall these are a great mat at the right price point.


4’ x 6’ x ¾” Flat/Flat Stall Mats

This is our top-of-the-line mat. They provide solid traction on both sides. They’re best used in aisle ways, wash stalls, or horse stalls. They’re easy to clean and nothing can get trapped underneath them if you’re putting them on top of concrete.



These should give you a rough idea as to what type of matting you should use where in your barn. For more information please browse our website or give us a call @ 1-866-284-677!

Posted in General

Arena Maintenance and Grooming

Written by System Fencing Tuesday, June 5, 2018

As we head into spring and start using our outdoor riding rings again we need to make sure that they’re prepared along with the equipment used to prepare them. Arenas take a beating from snow, ice, rain, and wind, so it’s important to create an optimal riding surface by harrowing and conditioning the arena before anyone uses it.

Ensure that the teeth on your harrow, drag, or groomer are either replaced or turned around for optimal cutting ability. Then tighten bolts, grease moving parts, and straighten anything that has been bent. When you’re ready to hook up your equipment to your tractor make sure that the lift arms on the tractor are level.

Adjust the tines or teeth so that they are approximately 1” or more lower than the blade or roller depending on the depth of the sand in your arena. Making sure that the tines aren’t set too deep is important to avoid grooming into the sub-base material. If when you’re grooming you start to hear scraping sound (steel on gravel), stop immediately and heighten the tines or teeth. When starting to groom your arena, alternate between driving in small circles, big circles, figure 8s, and serpentines. You want to fill in the areas where the footing is low with footing from areas where it is high. If you’re using a three-point hitch mounted machine, lift it up and back into the corners, then lower it and drag the raised footing inwards. When you have some build of sand on the drag try to move that extra material into the lower areas.

Sand Footing: A ring with footing made of a hard sub-base with sand on top is the easiest to condition. Sand moves and can easily be taken from high spots to fill in low spots. System Equine’s Track and Ring Conditioner works very well for sand applications. It has a spring tooth tine on the front with a blade and a grade bar that floats on the footing instead of the blade being a cutting edge. It’s very easy to use and comes in both a pullbehind model and a three-point hitch model. The three-point hitch model works better for getting material out of corners and away from wall edges. The pull-behind model is great for people with less grooming experience, as all you have to do to get going is back into it and attach one pin. Lots of adjustments are required at first, but after most people find the adjustment that works for them they find that they never have to adjust it again.

Fibre Footing: If you’ve invested in fibre footing for your ring then your arena maintenance routine will be very different. Fibre doesn’t tend to move a lot and the equipment used for grooming it will need to fluff and put down the material in the same spot. Rigid cutters or single spring tines with wide spacing between the tines or cutters are typical for groomers designed for this type of footing. On the back of the machine is a mesh wheel to fluff up the footing. There are some adjustments to be made at first, but fibre tends not to migrate as much as sand, so the goal of the process is more to fluff up and smooth out the depressions created by horses’ weight. Ensuring that the fluffing is consistent across the entire footing surface is one of the main challenges with this type of footing during the grooming process.

The length of time you spend conditioning your arena and how frequently you will need to condition it will depend on a number of factors, including how often the arena is used, the quality of the footing and sub-base, the type of riding or training the arena is used for, and whether or not horses are turned out in the arena. Taking a little extra time to groom your ring and doing it a little more frequently will benefit your arena, the horses, and the people riding in it.

Posted in General

Colic Surgery Aftercare: Morgan & Titan's Story

Written by Morgan Clark Wednesday, February 21, 2018

If you’ve ever dealt with a colicing horse, you know it’s one of the scariest experiences a horse owner can go through. While most cases can be rectified without any invasive procedures, some require emergency surgery. It is my hope that you learn at least one thing from my story that could help you in the future if you ever have the misfortune of going through colic surgery with your horse.

While out with friends one night I got a call from my barn manager saying Titan was showing signs of colic. She gave him some Banamine and I was immediately on route to the barn. His condition was rapidly worsenening, so the vet was called out by the time I got there. Once I arrived, the vet recommended he head to the emergency department at the Ontario Veterinary College.

When Titan arrived to the OVC they began running diagnostics. They sent me home and said they would give me a call if he needed surgery, reassuring me that he was in good hands. A few hours later I got the call; Titan was being rushed into surgery as his condition had yet again worsened. I rushed to the OVC and what seemed like an eternity later (really 6 hours) he was out of surgery and the surgeon explained that Titan had suffered a nephro-splenic entrapment. If you don’t know what that is you’re not alone; I learned that nephro-splenic entrapment is a type of colic where the colon displaces and becomes trapped between the horse’s spleen and kidney. Luckily for Titan the surgeon just had to put his colon back into place and didn’t have to remove any part of it.

Titan remained at the OVC for six days for observation. I visited him every day to give him a quick groom and a short walk when allowed. Keep in mind that the OVC has visiting hours that should be respected; we don’t want to get in the way of the hard-working individuals who are doing their all to keep our pets healthy!

The day before he was released I went to the barn and gutted and sanitized his stall using our Noble Outfitters Stall Wash. Upon his arrival he would be welcomed with a stall full of fresh bedding. I also put a sign on his door clearly stating that he is not to have any treats due to his surgery. I then went to pick up a thermometer and some disposable first-aid supplies (disposable gloves, gauze, vetwrap, etc.).

I put together a “recovery binder” using charts similar to those used at the OVC to track his temperament, medication given, temperature, bandage change times, food schedule, and bowel movements. I also included his baselines for temperature, heart rate, capillary refill, and respiration. I would highly recommend you take these baselines of your horse prior to any illness he or she may experience so that you know what is “normal” for him or her.

The next day Titan was discharged from the OVC. Upon discharge, they will provide you with a detailed report on the surgery and illness or disease that the horse has been dealing with. There will also be detailed instructions included which precisely outline aftercare, medication, and bandage changes. They will also advise on when to have your regular vet out next. They then showed me how to apply and remove the bandage and check his incision. I was then armed with enough bandaging material for two changes and the remainder of his antibiotics (usually sulfa).


Days 1 to 30

Titan was prescribed stall rest for 30 days with two to three ten-minute hand walk sessions per day. His feed was to be slowly reintroduced over the first two weeks. I hand walked him every day before work, on lunch, and after work. He received sulfa in the morning and evening for the first five days. Day five marked the first time I had to change his bandage, which was my first real hurdle. I asked a friend to help, as I wanted to ensure I bandaged him correctly. Use gloves when changing the bandage and keep the clean bandages in a safe and dry location. On Day 14 my vet came out to remove his stitches under a mild sedative.

During this time it is imperative that you keep your horse’s stall as clean as possible. This will help keep the wound clean, as I found my horse often liked to lay down to rest after his stitches were removed. I used the Forever Fork to pick out his stall whenever possible to keep the soil level down. This also helps accurately assess how much manure is in the stall and track it on the chart. It is also crucial to keep an eye on your horse’s legs during the stall rest period. I found that Titan’s legs became quite stocked up from the lack of movement. Thankfully the swelling was dramatically reduced after using my Back on Track Quick Wraps.

For these first four weeks I steamed his hay to ensure that it was cleaned of any impurities or dust that could possibly affect his respiration system. Titan being on stall rest meant he would be exposed to all of the dust and ammonia in the barn 24/7—even though I tried to keep his stall as clean as possible—so I steamed his hay to reduce his exposure to dust. I used the Haygain One portable steamer with my Haygain hay net to steam his hay.


Days 30 to 60

This was an exciting time for me, as it meant Titan could FINALLY be turned out in a small paddock. I took my time with this, as I was worried he would bolt and injure himself—he didn’t, I’m a worrywart. If your horse is especially high-strung, you may want to talk to your vet about administering a mild sedative before turning out in order to avoid injury. To create a small paddock I used Tarter round pen panels with a gate to section-off an individual paddock. You can make the space larger as your horse heals.

Having constant access to hay is important, as it is not only good for their digestive system, but it keeps them occupied and less likely to get into trouble; trouble meaning running around and aggravating the incision area.

During this period I was still hand walking him to ensure he was getting as much low-impact exercise as possible. Ensure to check the incision site daily for any swelling or changes.

At this point Titan had begun to gain back all of the weight he’d lost while he was ill. I started him back on his Mad Barn Optimum and Mad Barn W3 Omega 3 Oil supplements. The Optimum is great for post-surgery horses since it has a probiotic and prebiotic mix that is very beneficial for their digestive system. The oil is packed full of good fats and omega 3’s which helped him get back up to a healthy weight.


Days 60 to 90

At this point Titan was allowed access to the whole paddock. I kept him as calm as possible throughout the process of making his paddock larger, just like I did when I first turned him out.

My vet then gave me the go-ahead to start Titan back into work. He outlined the following rehab plan for me (keep in mind rehab plans can vary from horse to horse):

  • 30 minutes walking (starting with five minutes per session then gradually working up to 30 minutes) for 30 days
  • 30 minutes of walk and 30 minutes of trot (starting with five minutes of trot per session then gradually working up to 30 minutes) for 30 days
  • 30 minutes of walk/trot and introducing canter intervals of five minutes (gradually working up to what is normal for your horse) for 30 days
  • Resume jumping slowly

I am currently finishing up my first 30 days of walking. I recommend creating a playlist for your rehab; it will help with passing the time and I set mine so that when a certain song starts I know when to change directions or when to end my ride. You may also find it helpful to carry a stopwatch once you start trotting so that you can easily see how many minutes you have left.



Titan colicing has been one of the scariest, stressful, and overwhelming experiences I have ever gone through. Throwing myself full-force into his aftercare helped me regain some degree of control over a situation that I had very little control over. The main takeaway from this post is to show how important it is that you keep your horse happy and healthy even when it means waking up at 5am to hand walk, mucking a stall multiple times a day, scrubbing buckets several times a day, spending time with him or her during a period of isolation, and just walking for 30 minutes at a time—your horse depends on you fully during times like these; don’t let them down! I am also very thankful to all those who helped Titan and I during this difficult time, from the staff at the OVC, to my barn manager and owner, family, friends, coworkers, and my veterinarian. 

Posted in General

Winter Water Woes

Written by System Fencing Tuesday, February 6, 2018


When you manage or work at a farm in Canada you can certainly relate to the frustration that comes with the country’s not-at-all-uncommon sub-zero winter temperatures. Making sure your horses have clean, fresh water should always be a number one priority, but freezing water can quickly become a challenge when temperatures dip below the freezing mark. It can be quite disheartening to wake up to temperatures below -20°C and know with near-certainty that you’re going to run into problems that day. If you don’t set up your farm’s water system correctly the first time you’ll be waking up each morning on cold winter days praying that nothing freezes.

Your water line must lie below the frost line. Be thorough in your planning by checking your local building codes for your area’s frost depth. When installing a water line you must keep in mind a number of things:

  • If you’re planning to run your water line under a driveway or turnout path you’ll have to keep in mind that thefrostdepth in those areas is going to be deeper than in areas without traffic. The reason behind this is that snow acts as an insulator, and in high-traffic areas the snow is often removed, resulting in a deeper frost depth. You can plan for this by simply running the water line deeper, or by adding Styrofoam insulation on top of those water lines. Another alternative would be to skirt the water line around these areas instead of going beneath them.
  • Think about installing frost-free hydrants in areas where you require access to water. Frost-free hydrants are installed in the ground, and water only comes up above the frost line when the handle is pulled (or, in the case of The Drinking Post, when the paddle is pushed).


Do not fret if you already have your water line in place and often deal with frozen pipes, as there are a few things you can still do to help remedy freezing issues:

  • You can run a heat tracer line inside your water line. A heat tracer is an electrical heater element that can easily be purchased from your local hardware store or better yet from a plumbing supply store. If your lines are always freezingit very well may be worth the effort to invest in an internal pipe freeze protection line, which can be installed into any existing water line.
  • Leave your hose or tap trickling into a water bucket or drain during times of sub-zero temperatures. The movement within the pipe will help prevent the line from freezing. Just remember that in order to do this you must have a reliable source of water.
  • Place bales of straw above areas where you feel the frost is reaching your pipes. Straw acts as an insulator and will prevent frost from reaching the water line. Hay will not be as effective as it is not as good of an insulator as straw. CAUTION: Do NOT place straw near plugs, heaters, and/or electrical wires.
  • Invest in multiple shut-offs for your water lines; this will afford you the ability to shut off lines that you know are aproblem and then drain the water from them.
  • You can install an air fitting on your water lines which will give you the ability to blow out lines with an air compressor that are causing issues in freezing temperatures.


Implement one or many of these strategies to help you avoid unnecessary stress this winter. The less time you spend attempting to thaw out your water lines this winter is more time you can spend with your horses—or in your home away from the cold!


Posted in General

Helping Treat Equine Eye Conditions with the Guardian Mask

Written by Guardian Mask Wednesday, August 9, 2017

For 25 years, Guardian Mask has been manufacturing the ultimate solution to help horses suffering with headshaking and eye conditions such as uveitis (ERU or moon blindness), glaucoma, eye cancer, cataracts, and eye injuries. Their unique patented 95% Sunshades are specifically designed to help aid in the treatment, healing, and prevention of these major eye conditions and dieases. The Guardian Mask offers extended life and productivity to the horses that have suffered these conditions, and they stress in numerous cases, without the additional use of medications or surgeries. The Guardian Mask is designed to be worn year-round during daylight hours, but it can also be worn at night.

What is Uveitis?

Equine Recurrent Uveitis (ERU) or "moon blindness" is an inflammation of the inside of the eye. It is associated in some cases withleptospira bacteria, it also has an immune-mediated component. Uveitis can be sub clinical where no outward signs are seen until the horse turns up blind in one or both eyes.  Uveitis can be very painful, and can effect one or both eyes, usually in time both eyes are affected. Uveitis isn't contagious and studies have shown that the condition, and blindness, does seem to be more prominent  in Appaloosas, and Paints, compared to other breeds, the list of high risk breeds however, is sadly growing over time. Changing weather and environments are also a large factor in increasing conditions.



ERU is usually treated with topical corticosteroids (after your DVM has determined there are no corneal ulcers), and topical antibiotics. Often, Banamine is used systemically to help with the inflammation.   

Aspirin therapy is used in some cases between flare-ups to decrease the progression of the disease. Uveitis usually does progress over time often to blindness and even then can still flare up, and be painful for the horse. It is recommended to have your horse tested.  

Aside from aspirin therapy, (ask your DVM and the veterinary ophthalmologist) there is little that can be done to prevent ERU from reoccurring. Recurrent Uveitis, a leading cause of blindness in horses, often developing as a sequel to systemic leptospirosis.   

Bute, Banamine and atropine have been used in the profession for many years and is currently being used and becoming known that these are only producing some, temporary relief at best. 

Alternative therapies such as the use of  a Guardian Mask with 95% Sunshades™ have proven to help alleviate the symptoms associated with horses suffering Uveitis. The special patented 95% Sunshades help occlude harmful UV rays that cause the irritation and weeping associated with this disease. The recommended use is in all daylight hours, year round. Not just during flare ups, it is important to continue protection year round. 

There are also special feed supplements available. When used in conjunction with mask protection, horse owners have experienced increased positive results to help combat and control uveitis. 


Additional Information

The bacterial organism leptospira is associated with some cases of recurrent equine uveitis (aka moon blindness). Blood tests, cultures, etc., can be done however the cause of ERU is not always identifiable. There is also an immune-mediated component to the disease.  

Leptospira can cause of abortion in mares, and despite extensive clinical research, the etiology of equine recurrent uveitis (ERU) is still unknown.  

Equine recurrent uveitis, is an important ocular disease and the most common cause of blindness in horses and mules world wide.


Ocular Emergencies

Ocular emergencies include any condition which threatens the integrity of the globe or vision. Etiologies include trauma, burns, infections, uveitis, corneal ulceration, optic neuritis, central blindness, and the uncommon cases of equine glaucoma, early cataracts, cancer, and headshaking.   

An accurate diagnosis is critical for appropriate treatment for these problems. The prognosis may still be poor or grave with appropriate diagnosis; however, aggressive treatment is the only chance these eyes have to not only save their vision, but more so to help save their lives.   

Frequent reevaluations are also an important part of treating emergencies because additional problems can become evident over time which will also need treatment. Most ocular and orbital injuries or acute ocular inflammation in horses result in similar signs of adnexal swelling.


In cases of uveitis there will be a blue or white cloudiness and often a light or heavy discharge from the eye.  Horses may also display behavioral stress and try to rub their eyes against objects to try to relieve the pain. Horses have even been observed dunking their heads in water sources to also try to alleviate the pain. Horses can also continually seek shade. Sometimes symptoms are only visible in one eye, or both eyes. 


What are Equine Cataracts?

Cataracts are described as cloudy eyes or eyes that have a white film over the lens or a thick opacity of the lens. Cataracts can impair vision as well as blind a horse depending on the severity and it can occur in one or both eyes. 



The cause can be a variety of factors including genetic inheritance however this is not often the most common cause. The most common breeds of horses to have congenital cataracts are Appaloosa's and Arabians. All horses however, are susceptible to developing cataracts at any stage of life. Cataracts are generally caused by eye injuries and or eye diseases such as Uveitis and not limited to any particular age group however it is known to most commonly occur with either young foals or much older horses, older horses being the more common of the two age groups.

It is best to try and consider prevention rather than waiting until something "crops up" or waiting until your horse's eyes are in poor to bad condition. 



Cataracts can be surgically removed however in older horses the chances of success are considerably low at 50% and even after a surgical removal there is a high degree of complications that can arise such as ongoing inflammation, ulcerations and cloudiness which could lead to shrinking of the eye and even blindness. 

Foals born with or developing cataracts under six months old are considered to have this affliction as a congenital disease. Most veterinarians recommend surgical removal of the lens if the foal is healthy as the foals can usually tolerate aggressive treatments.

Of course any horse that has had a cataract removal is no longer considered  a "sound" horse even if the horse can still function and get about in a normal fashion. A horse that has not had surgical removal of the lens can still also be functional with the aid of alternative therapy.  

The Original Multi-Purpose Guardian Mask  can not only help slow down the process, but the mask can also help prevent cataracts as the disease is known to be linked to Uveitis and as we have discovered, the best known treatment for uveitis is in fact the Guardian Mask with 95% sunshades for ultimate protection against the harmful UV rays of the sun.

It is always recommended to have a complete ophthalmic examination as well as a general health examination to determine the condition of a horse with any type of eye conditions, as some diseases tend to also effect other regions of the horses anatomy.  

What are Some Other Equine Eye Injuries?

There are many ways in which a horse can injure his eye or eyes. Horses can always find a way and other horses can sometimes be the culprits. One can never predict when a horse may become injured but when it happens, quick action and treatment may save your horses eyes.


Equine Eye Injury Examples

  • A kick or bite from another horse
  • Sharp objects in or around a horses stall or pasture
  • Fighting with other horses that might cause trauma to an eye or eyes
  • Accidental head bumping into other objects
  • Splinters from wood or trees including dead tree limbs
  • Tack or loose equipment that might be laying around the barn, stall or pasture
  • Rubbing against objects such as stalls or fences
  • Trailer injuries caused by a horse becoming excited or nervous
  • Foreign objects from flying debris such as leaf particles, dust, or dirt
  • Insect stings
  • Human inflicted trauma



There are hundreds of ways a horse can manage an injury but once an injury has been sustained, the first thing that is recommended is to assess the situation. If there is bleeding and or visible cuts, veterinary treatment is recommended. If it appears that your horse has a foreign object lodged in the eye, you could try gently rinsing to see if you can remove the object and determine if there is any damage. If you find small particles or objects in the eye you can try using a clean handkerchief corner to remove the object. Sometimes clean cotton-tipped applicators can help. Eye washes can also be helpful to clean out any blood from a torn eye lid or eye if you can manage to keep the horse calm enough. Any injury to a horse can be very traumatic, always use caution when approaching an injured horse.

If your horse has sustained a traumatic injury, your veterinarian may suggest treatment or if there is sutures, there may also be medications and follow-up treatment that is required. If you wish to help protect your horses eyes while receiving treatment we recommend using a Guardian Mask. The Guardian Mask will help keep dust, debris and insects out of the eye area so it may help promote healing. It will also help keep the harmful UV rays of the sun from causing additional pain to your horse. The unique design of the mask has a raised set of "eyes" that are made of sturdy heavy duty materials and keep the eye covers away from the eyes. This helps prevent rubbing which could cause further damage to your horse's eye.

You may also consider using Guardian Masks for prevention. The Guardian Mask products are excellent in helping keep the eyes protected not just against the harmful UV rays of the sun but also excellent in protecting against harsh winds and the debris that might follow.

Always remember to seek the advice of your veterinarian in any case to help determine what is best for your horse. A horse's eyes are key to his health and they are not only expressive but help you read how your horse feels. All creatures have a natural ability to read others by searching their eyes, it is true that the eyes bring the world in, and it is also true that the inner creature is revealed through their eyes. Protecting them is as important as the horse's overall health.


Hi Sid!

This letter has been a long time coming in your direction. I first spoke to you 4 years ago. I have an Anglo Arab mare that had been diagnosed with uveitis. However, I am a very skeptical person I needed to make sure that I believed in your product before I sent a testimonial. Here is a brief rundown of what happened with my mare Mercedes.

I remember this day so vividly my mare’s eye was swollen and running and it looked quite painful. I stood in the barn with my mare and awaited the vet’s arrival.  He diagnosed her with uveitis and left me with a hand full of medications and directions. I was still optimistic about my mare condition and her treatment.

Two weeks later… I stood in the barn again, waiting for the vet’s arrival…  this time for the other eye. Again, more instructions, medications and now my spirits just a little less optimistic. (I was boarding my horse and the time over 30 minutes from home and had to travel to medicate her 4 times a day!)

My mare recovered quickly this time. One month later, again, standing in the barn with my mare, both eyes swollen almost closed, and running, and waiting for the vet to arrive. The vet arrived and during the examination we discovered both eyes so badly affected they were full of pools of blood!

Again, the vet leaves, I have my hands full of medications and by now I am very familiar with the treatment schedule! Now, I am very worried about my mare, I am in a daze I am so tired from driving to treat her. I remember sitting on the floor of my mare’s stall and sobbing!!! 

The first year of continuous treatment came and went.  Into the second year of treatment, my life started to revolve around my mare’s treatment. I quit my job and found one closer to the barn to make sure I got 4 treatments a day into her eyes. I left home and rented an apartment in the country to shorten my drive time.  I no sooner got one eye under control and the other eye would need treatment again. I fought with ulcers on her eyes from the steroid medications. Ulcers in her stomach from pain management medications. The final straw was when my mare had one of her eyes go completely covered with a white “fungus” type problem!!! From get this… the fungus was caused by the medications to treat the uveitis! Again the vet came out to try and help me with my mare. The vet care for my mare was fantastic however; this was a pretty severe case. My mare at this point had been on complete stall rest with no light for 2 months (give or take a day) my mare looked terrible. She had no spirit left in her! She had lost so much weight I barely recognized her and I was now considering a humane end to this so called life she was living! The vet and I discussed our options for Mercedes.

I went home in complete despair. I cried the whole car ride home. I arrived home and told my boyfriend about what kind of a decision I was faced with.  I went and sat down and found myself feeling completely helpless. I could for the first time do nothing to help my mare, I was at the end of watching her suffer, and I was exhausted physically and mentally and financially drained!

About an hour later my boyfriend arrived with a print out from the computer. It was your website. He urged me to call and order and just give it one last shot. I reached you on the other end of the line Sid! My first bit of hope in months! You understood! I quickly ordered the mask and waited. You sent me the mask on a rush order and I had it within 2 days! When the mask arrived in the mail I rushed out to the barn to put it on her. Okay at first I thought she looked kind of funny but who cares if it helps.


4 Years Later...

Mercedes now lives at home on my farm.  She is completely blind in one eye and can see I think maybe “shadows” in the other eye. (I wish I had found your mask months earlier she would probably still have her vision). She is so happy; she has not had any problems with her eyes in over 2 years!  I have 3 of your masks so I can rotate to get them washed.  She wears her mask 24 hours a day 7 days a week.  In fact your masks are so well made that I still have her original mask and it is in great shape!

It has been so long since I have thought of her eye condition that I had to look up how to spell uveitis again!

Sid, my sincerest thank you for all you have done for Mercedes and me. Thank you for taking the time to speak with me on many occasions by phone, for taking the time to find a “treatment” for these wonderful animals that suffer from moonblindness, and for raising awareness with horse owners and vets throughout North America.

Trail riding season is starting again here in Ontario and thanks to you, Mercedes and I will enjoy the sunshine again for another summer together.

I do not hesitate to tell anyone about your product.  My testimonial… the smile on my face every time I open the barn doors in the morning and am greeted by the whinny of my mare.

Thank you…
Yours truly,

Andrea Patterson
Heckston, Ontario

To read more testimonials like Andrea's, click here.

Call 1 (866) 284-6773 to order!

Data gathered from various sources including horse owners, veterinarians, and Guardian Mask.

Click here to go to their website for more information.

Always remember to seek the advice of your veterinarian before treatment.

Posted in General